Yes, I know, the title of this post is predictable and it is most likely a surprise that I haven't used it yet, but today it seems especially appropriate. It's not Sir Paul's lyrics that I'm thinking of though, not that I have anything against Ukrainian girls and yes, Georgia (the republic) is on my mind. What is really evident is how much things have changed since the collapse of the Soviet Union and the way that those changes have played out. Or at least this is what I was thinking about as I walked passed the Lamborghini and Ferrari dealership on my way to a relatively expensive grocery store, located in an unbelievably expensive mall next to the Bolshoi Theatre. There is after all, a reason that Moscow is considered one of the most expensive cities on the planet.
Unlike in the Soviet days, as my hostess was telling me the other night over a plate of salted cucumbers with dill and garlic, there are many things to buy these days. The city is dotted with large malls offering everything from Levis to Guess, or from Giorgio Armani to Tiffany's. However, who is actually able to purchase items from these stores is a mystery to me. I have seen many Porches, Ferraris, Lamborghinis, Bentleys, Jaguars, and Audis racing through the streets, so evidently some people in Moscow are able to afford such expensive goods.....or possibly they were obtained by other, more creative, methods. But I was shocked when I made my way to the Sketchers store to purchase what I thought would be an inexpensive pair of tennis shoes, maybe $50 at most. It turns out that was a pure fantasy on my part and the cheapest pair they had were the equivalent of $120 - for Sketchers!
My hostess told me that most people who can purchase their clothing and shoes in other European countries since they are much more affordable elsewhere. When you look at the food purchases of average Russians, meaning people who do not race around in Italian sports cars whiled decked out in Gucci, they are much more modest too. The center section of the produce department in the grocery store is always filled with dill, green onions, cucumbers, white mushrooms, potatoes, cabbages, yellow onions, carrots, and beets and this is the section where you will find most people making their choices. These items are very reasonably priced and it is no wonder that traditional Russian dishes include some combination of these items. But if you are interested in bell peppers, corn, green beans, or possibly hot chile peppers or jalapeño peppers, be prepared to pay. I went to 4 different grocery stores looking for jalapeño peppers before I finally found them at an upscale place called Globus Gourmet, which is truly a beautiful store. Granted jalapeño peppers are not common in Russian cuisine, but really $25 seemed a bit much for a pack of three peppers.
So while there are things to buy here, as compared to earlier days, it is difficult for many people to afford more than the basics. According to my hostess in some ways the the old system was easier because while there weren't as many choices, the distance between the 'haves' and the 'have-nots' did not seem so obvious. Sure, as she was telling me, people who belonged to the upper echelons of the Communist Party had access to things that average Russians did not, but during the Soviet period you did not have so many nouveau riche speeding along in outrageous cars, buying flashy designer goods simply to show that they have the means to do so. Ah, the vulgarity of conspicuous consumption.
I was finally able to make a pot of drunken pinto beans - minus the jalapeño peppers - and they were fabulous. At the gourmet market I found a bottle of Tabasco chipotle sauce and once I added half of the bottle the beans had enough flavor. I considered substituting the tequila that I normally use with vodka for a Russian version, but I had white wine so I used it instead. I also found a package of "Italianskii" tortilla shells that are pretty close to the Mexican tortilla shells we eat at home. So all in all it was a pretty good meal following a successful and productive week of research in the library. Tomorrow I will play tourist again as the music library is closed on weekends and I've already mined everything I can out of the main branch. I'm off to the museum of Viktor Vasnetsov who painted these very interesting, fairy-tale like paintings in the late 1800s.
My favorite purchases so far - Tobasco & the Italian version of chocolate chip cookies
These are pictures from the Hotel Metropol. The building was built between 1899-1905 by William Walcot (Russian-British background) & Lev Kekushev. It is done in the Russian version of art nouveau.
The paintings at the top are by Mikhail Vrubel and are based on a French story La Princesse Lointaine, by Edmond Rostand, the author also of Cyrano de Bergerac. The point of my rambling here is to remind everyone of Russia's connection with Europe.
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